A Shift in Thinking

Performance Climbing and Coaching Seminar Report

Over the weekend of the 28^th-30^th of March 2008 the 1^st Irish Performance Climbing and Coaching Seminar took place in Tollymore Mountain Centre. The event was hugely successful both from a numbers point of view and also (though it will take a few months) for permanently changing the face of the Irish Climbing Community. The weekend succeeded in raising the levels of available knowledge and increasing the drive towards the availability of high-quality coaching and mentoring as well as high level climbing and mountaineering.

A series of workshops and presentations from internationally respected coaches, medics and sports scientists provided participants with the background knowledge required to form a deeper understanding of how to improve both their own climbing and that of others.

Certain anecdotal research was undertaken over the course of the weekend that was extremely useful in guiding a number larger research projects that will help to shape the future of not only Irish climbing, but the global climbing community. I know for many of you attending you may not have seen the larger plan behind it, but you will in the future.

I want to express my huge thanks to Tollymore Mountain Centre, Sport NI and Outsider Magazine for being progressive enough to be able to see the benefits of an event like this happening and being willing to provide so much support – thanks guys.

I also want to extend thanks on behalf of everyone attending to the presenters – it was you that that enabled the high-standards anticipated for this event to be achieved and could not possibly have been as successful in your absence.

As a final note to all of you that attended – share the knowledge that you gained over the weekend. The event was held in order to raise standards within the community as a whole and to help change the less progressive attitudes that are unfortunately shared by some individuals and organisations, often deeply associated with the sport.

We have a very unique and close scene in Ireland (something that many people don’t realise until they’ve experienced those of other nations) and it is one that I am very proud to be a part of. It is this closeness that will help to make the knowledge generated from the seminar more sustainable and further reaching than just those that attended. Don’t keep it to yourself!!

Nigel Callender

Watch out for more info on the even on Climbing.ie, Outsider Magazine, Climber Magazine (UK), teamgearedup.com, irishclimbingcoaching.ie and the seminar webpage over the next few weeks. Also watch this space for more happenings related to the event.

Confirmed Presenters

Audry Morrison BSc (Hons) Human Nutrition

Audry is a London-based nutritionist with a research interest in Climbing Physiology. She is also a member of MedComm the UIAA's Medical Commission. Recently, in partnership with Volker Schoffl, Audry published a groundbreaking paper on the physiological implications of climbing and climbing related training on the young body (see the prestigious British Journal of Sports Medicine http://bjsm.bmj.com/content/vol41/issue12/cover.dtl), she has more research papers on the way.

She is a self confessed climbing nut and will combine her passion for climbing and medicine to present a practical workshop on Nutrition and Hydration for Climbers and also a lecture on the Implications of Climbing/Training on the Developing Body. Both promise to be extremely useful and informative for all.


Sean Villanueva-O'Driscoll: BSc (Hons) Sports Science

Sean is a Belgian Sports Scientist/Climbing Coach and is well known on the Irish Climbing Scene for his hard Trad exploits in Fair Head and the Burren. However, it certainly doesn't stop here, free ascents of Salathe Wall on El Cap, Fitzroy and The Central Tower of Paine as well as Sport Climbing ascents up to F.8b+ are the order of the day.

On top of his skills as a top climber, Sean is a Moniteur d'Esacalade (Niveau II) and has also co-authored a paper on the physiological responses of climbers to varying route styles of the same grade (http://www.springerlink.com/content/05kv5663r6732757/).

Sean will be running practial coaching workshops over the weekend focusing on Climbing Technique and may even be persuaded to do a slide show on his recent Patagonian Expedition.


Dr. Jamie MacDonald: PhD (Clinical Exercise Physiology), BSc (Hons) Sports Science

Jamie is Lecturer and Admissions Tutor on the Sport Science (Outdoor
Activities) degree at Bangor University, and is BASES accredited Sport
and Exercise Scientist. He is principal research interest and applied
work is in patients with Chronic Kidney Disease, but he also leads a
research program in Outdoor Activities including climbing, mountain
biking and high altitude medicine. He is a keen climber and has
considerable knowledge of the most up to date research on training for
climbing.

Jamie will be presenting a workshop on The Principles of Training and how they can be applied to climbing.


Andrew McMullan: BSc (Hons) Sports Science, MSc Rehabilitation Science (Physiotherapy)

Andy combines qualifications as both a Sports Scientist and Physiotherapist to provide very extensive knowledge of Climbing Injuries and the reasons why they occur. His research entitled: Shoulder Rotator Flexibility, Isokinetic Peak Torque and Peak Torque Ratios in Climbers and Non-Climbers has been presented to the British Association of Sports Medicine at their 1998 Conference.

Andy is also an American College of Sports Medicine Health and Fitness Instructor and is a member of the Register of Exercise Professionals. He has also been climbing for 30 years and has previously worked as a climbing instructor.

Andy will be doing a workshop on Climbing Injuries, their causes and how to prevent them.


Dr. Ross Roberts: MSc, PhD (BASES Accredited Sports Psychologist)

Ross is a BASES accredited Sport Psychologist and currently works as a lecturer at the School of Sport, Health and Exercise Sciences at Bangor University. He has recently submitted his PhD thesis examining the effectiveness of imagery in sport performance, and is being examined for
his PhD in February.

Since 2002, Ross has worked with athletes from a variety of sports. This has included working as the Sport Psychologist for the Welsh Elite Canoe Slalom Squad and Welsh Youth Sailing Squads for five years. In addition, he has worked with an international free diver, the Golf Union of Wales, professional golfers in North Wales, and Welsh Athletics. Ross has also provided regular workshops, education sessions to parents of junior athletes, and worked with coaches from a range of sports. Further to this, he is currently in the process of completing a two year project in
collaboration with the Sports Council for Wales that involves working with elite Welsh coaches in order to increase their understanding and confidence to use particular psychological skills with their athletes. He is also a keen climber.

Ross will be presenting a series of workshops on Performance Profiling and Goal Setting for Climbers and Coaches.


Anne Arran:

A name that speaks for itself. Former British Climbing Champion, the 2nd British Woman to climb F.8a, first ascents of major new routes in remote locations such as Angel Falls, Venezuela and various locations throughout Asia, E6 leads in the UK...

Anne has been Coach to the British Junior Team and was instrumental in the development of the BMC's high-performance policy as well as President of the UIAA youth commission. She currently provides private coaching both in the UK and abroad.

Anne will be running a workshop on Coaching skills for climbers - developing the various skills useful for anyone introducing others to the sport/working with beginners and also running a practical coaching workshop in Climbing Technique.

The Future Begins Here

Greetings.

From the 28th to 30th of March 2008, Irish Climbing Coaching in conjunction with Tollymore Mountain Centre and Outsider Magazine, will be hosting the 1st Irish Seminar on Performance Climbing and Coaching. It will be the first event dedicated to developing climbing performance within the Irish Climbing Community. The weekend will feature a series of workshops and lectures that will be of benefit Current/Wannabe Top Performers, Keen Climbers looking to improve their grade, those with an interest in Coaching, Medics etc....

Currently, workshops include:

• Coaching Masterclasses with Top UK and European Coaches
• Climbing Injuries and their Prevention
• Coaching for Climbing Coaches/Instructors
• Practical Training Workshops

Lectures by global experts in their relevant fields include:

• Training for Climbing: The techniques and principles of improving your performance
• Psychology of Climbing and Performance
• Implications of Climbing on Young Performers
  
• Youth Coaching
• Special Considerations for the Developing/Young Climber
• Plenty more to be announced......

The lectures and workshops will be presented by leaders in their respective areas of climbing research (Sports Medicine, Exercise Physiology, Sports Psychology, Climbing Coaching) and will be available throughout the weekend.

Night time activities will include the usual entertainment in the form of talks, slideshows and the chance to participate in cutting edge physiological research, as well as much more.

More details will be posted as things develop over the next few weeks. So call back and watch this space.

Nigel Callender - Irish Climbing Coaching